Yakuza Moon

I opened one of the albums on the table, and looked at photos of what must have been the tattoo master's work. One in particular caught my eye. It wasn't just a tattoo: it was a piece of art using the human body as a canvas, with delicately curving lines representing graceful koi leaping up a foaming waterfall. I'd grown up surrounded by men with tattoos, starting with my father, and I'd never felt there was anything wrong with having one. Ever since I was a kid I'd loved to draw, and I was sure I'd been inspired by the beautiful work of art on my father's body. But nothing had ever spoken to me like the work of this tattoo master.

Shoko Tendo, Yakuza Moon

I don't know why I chose this quote, as most of the book is about Shoko's addiction to drugs, a series of violent, especially brutal relationships, and her struggle to "grow up", even in her thirties. There's not much substance here, IMHO, but I have to say the insight into the yanki lifestyle (punk kids) was an eye-opener: never in my life had I imagined any kids in Japan behaving so disobediently, skipping school, inhaling paint thinner, ordering gang members to rape girls...

Every time I consider getting a tattoo I always come back to my first concern: Japanese hot springs. If I were denied entrance to even one, it wouldn't be worth it to me just for a little piece of macho art. Do women really go for that on guys? Discuss.

Japanese Whaling in South Park

The latest episode of South Park tackles the Japanese whaling practices - absolutely hilarious. Apparently they hate whales because they believed a whale and a dolphin flew the Enola Gay to Hiroshima. Definitely check it out.

20 things I wanted to do in Japan but couldn't find the time...

I started out small in my Japanese travels: walking behind Saijou Station to the local Shinto shrine; discovering the AEON supermarket open 24-hours; only then venturing "way out" to Hiroshima City... for 35 minutes and 570 yen of travel, you'd think I'd know there was more to see. Eventually, as my language skills developed and I read more about some of the sights within ferry, train, and biking distance, I grew more comfortable trying my luck on the road. Despite everything I managed to see in two years, a huge list remained, giving me a reason to come back.

1. Watch Yasubame


http://www.flickr.com/photos/reway2007/3714756672/

Horseback archery. Some of those riders are amazingly gifted. There were a few yasubame events in Kagoshima Prefecture, but I wanted to see one of the famous shows at the Tono Matsuri in September. Tono, in northern Honshu, is insanely remote.


2. Ski in Hokkaido

My Japanese skiing experience is limited to Mizuho Highland in Hiroshima Prefecture, but I always longed to try out the mountains in Hokkaido.


3. Visit Cape Soya



Like Alan Booth, I'd love to see Japan from cape to cape. Scratch Sata off the list after my cycling adventure last year.


4. Tanabata Matsuri in Aomori

The biggest of its kind in Japan.


5. Hike ALL of Kirishima

I did get to do a day trip to Kirishima, but missed out on several of the key peaks and hot springs; It'd be great to camp in that area.


6. Visit the North Coast - Matsue

I know there's not much to see if you follow the coastline from Shimonoseki to Matsue, but that's precisely what I wanted; not even trains run east to west that far north.


7. Run the Yoron Marathon

I was signed up for the 2008 Tokyo Marathon, but as you may recall, I shattered my wrist about two months prior to the start. There are several Japanese races I'm proud to have competed in: Miyajima 10k, Nagasaki Bayside Half Marathon, Hiroshima Peace Marathon. I wrote about the Yoron Marathon as my choice race for Asia in a recent Vagabondish article.


8. Eclipse Ceremony on Akusekijima

Akusekijima is a small, small island in the Tokara Chain in southern Kagoshima Prefecture. Every year in late July, the island brings back its traditional ceremonies - dancing in big wooden masks - for the coming of the solar eclipse. I missed the greatest eclipse in the history of time on July 22nd, but we'll see what the future holds.


9. Visit a Tea House in Kyoto

This would be expensive, unlikely, and probably not live up to its expectations. Still, if I had the right Japanese friends or business associates, I'd love to drink and eat in a Kyoto tea house with real geisha (not the watered-down version they use for tourists). Maybe Sayuki would take me?


10. Finish the 88-Temple Walk in Shikoku



I walked this Buddhist pilgrimage ikkoku mairi, one prefecture at a time. Tokushima-ken was mountainous, difficult, and extremely beautiful... but I only finished 23 temples. 65 more in my lifetime...


11. Be a Guest in a Japanese Home

I've been a guest for lunch as part of my osettai on the Shikoku Henro Trail, and received an offer from a kindly old man in Sapporo, but have yet to really experience everything one can in a full tatami-mat, doting mother, rebellious daughter, steaming bath, amazing dinner Japanese home.


12. Cherry Blossom Festival in Okinawa

Well, I suppose just visiting Okinawa would be enough... if I could kayak around Zamamijima. I never really got the full hanami experience, either: sitting down with friends with some yakiniku and sake as the pedals gently fall.


13. Spend Money on a Hostess Bar

Yen yen ya'll. Guess that expression doesn't work cross-culturally. Let me first point out I have no desire to look for a date in a hostess bar... but I can't help it, I'm curious. Curious to see what these modern-day teahouses offer to the working man (and woman). Unfortunately, unless I happen to have several thousand dollars I'm willing to blow on wine, karaoke, and the company of an attractive woman in the floating world, it just won't happen. Closest I've come is reading Bar Flower by Lea Jacobson.


14. Learn to be Fluent in Japanese

Pretty self-explanatory. My language skills, though enough to get me around, weren't exactly on the level of a Japanese intellectual.


15. See the Lantern Festival in Nagasaki

The ceremonies in Hiroshima were very awe-inspiring. I'd really like to know if there are any differences with the August 9th events in Nagasaki.


16. Shame an Evangelical on a Crowded Street in Japanese

I hate missionaries, Evangelicals, and Jehovah's Witnesses. Hate them. Hate. Clear enough? I managed to steer clear of them the majority of my time in Japan, but every so often... well, let's just say if I had the Japanese skills, the time, and the right inclination, I wouldn't hesitate to loudly stuff that religious nonsense down their throats.


17. Do more Volunteer Work

Volunteering an orphanage in Aira was a rare opportunity, one I'd gladly repeat.


18. Study Aikido

A lot of the marital arts were tempting (with the exception of sumo), but I think aikido is the best fit for me. Of course I know I can look for a training group outside of Japan, but still...


19. Eat Ikizukuri

Sashimi is usually prepared in restaurants from a live animal, but, once served, quite inert. Ikizukuri is something very different. It often begins with a diner choosing a live fish, which a trained chef will then carefully slice up and present - the heart still beating as you take a bite.


20. Yell in a Kabuki

Unlike in many western dramas, Kabuki plays encourage audience members to participate by shouting out names and answering characters’ questions. Now if I only knew what to shout...

What NOT To Do In Japan

Not just customs, as I wrote about last week for iloho, but rather the activities and sights that are just too cliché to even merit a visit. Check out the full story on Matador.

There are many wonderful and unspoiled places in the land of the rising sun: islands with cedar trees thousands of years old; floating shrines providing the backdrop for a sea of fireworks; girls dressed up in gothic and "living doll" costumes in Harajuku. However, for every sight you absorb on a visit to Japan, you should be aware of the paths that have been beaten to the extreme, the activities designed for tourists that are over the top, screaming cliché, or just too crowded and overpriced.

1. Don't Spend Money on Pachinko

Pachinko is one of the few ways to legally gamble in Japan, but don't be lured into a parlor thinking you'll see attractions like those of Vegas. The place is beyond loud - noise making your ears bleed in matter of seconds - and full of cigarette smoke. The games themselves should be reserved for a 10th circle in Dante's Inferno. Imagine a pinball machine with a computer screen display; once you pull the lever you have literally no control as to where the ball ends up. Just like in Vegas, you'll find burnt out slot jockeys spending hours on end inserting yen, winning once every 27 days. Fun fun.

Do sing karaoke
A karaoke booth with an all-you-can-drink special is a much better alternative if you want to be surrounded by video screens and loud noises.

It’s nothing like a country-western karaoke bar in the U.S.

All the booths in Japan are private, so you can only make an ass of yourself in front of close friends.

The Shidax chain is my favorite, but every town should have at least one place to sing.


2. Don't Climb Mt. Fuji... When There's A Line

Fuji is swamped with foreign and Japanese tourists in the official hiking season (peak in August), and completely overwhelmed during the Obon holiday week; by this, I mean you will have to wait in line the entire journey to the top, and struggle to crop people out of your photos once you see the sunrise stream across a blanket of clouds.

I'm all for conversations with Japanese and international tourists, but if it means slowing your natural pace, getting stopped, and dealing with a crowd on what should be a leisurely hike, then I'd say it's worth the threat of hypothermia or slipping on ice to risk climbing in the off-season.

Do Climb it in the Off-Season

Late September and October would be "safest", as there may be minimal snow, but if you want the trek to yourself, bring the right gear and see if you can get permission from the 5th station to go in November or December. Obviously, this can be rather dangerous, and I don't recommend it to anyone who doesn't have serious experience climbing on ice. Attempting the ascent early, in May or June, can be just as risky with the rainy season.

If you're looking for an alternative path to the summit, check out the Fuji Mountain Race.


3. Don't Drink at the Lost in Translation Bar

The famous establishment is actually located at the top of the Park Hyatt in Shinjuku. Stick to the the gallery and coffee shop atop Roppongi Hills for just as impressive a view.

Do Stop By When Money Is No Object

I mean, would you normally pay 4000 yen for a fruit and cheese platter?


4. Don't Pay an Absurd Amount of Money to Dress Like a Geisha

For the ladies out there (although I've heard they'll do it for men, too), this is one activity many guesthouses and hostels offer throughout Kyoto. For about 10,000-30,000 yen (USD100-300), depending on the services offered and the time allowed, your face will be painted pale white, your hair arranged in traditional geisha style, and your body stuffed and folded into a slim silk kimono.

The purpose of all this? Photos to send home... the chance to see what geisha experience... sometimes you're allowed to take a short walk outside in full regalia and watch the reactions of startled Japanese men and tourists thinking "Wow! A real geisha! Get the camera!" Unfortunately, it's just not worth it; with foreign noses, eyes, and facial features, we simply look ridiculous. The areas in which you walk are well known by locals, and you can hardly expect a genuine reaction from another foreigner wasting money to "look Japanese".

Do See The One Foreigner Who Can Pull It Off

American-born Sayuki, currently working in the Asakusa district of Tokyo: http://www.sayuki.net/


5. Don't Travel Far and Wide for Cherry Blossoms

Imagine you've just flown into Tokyo one Sunday in April; those flowering trees that have inspired thousands of haiku and drunken hanami (viewing parties) are now in full bloom and ripe for the watching. Instantly, you think: "I've got to get to the best viewing spots in the country, quickly!" Many travelers opt to follow the spread of the sakura (cherry blossoms) from the south of Okinawa in February all the way to Hokkaido in May.

Do See Local Sakura

If you feel as though your current location is lacking in these wondrous plants, think again; every city, town, and prefecture in Japan has a great place to lay down a blanket, crack open an Asahi beer, and view the pedals falling as gently as snow. I'm not going to deny there are some great trees out there, but don't feel pressured to rush out of town; cherry blossoms bloom for only one week, and even with reliable predictions, your scheduled holiday may have you arrive a few days before or after full bloom. Instead, take advantage of your present surroundings.


6. Don't Restrict your WWII Studies to Hiroshima

There is more to the history of Japan during World War II than the Peace Museum, the A-Bomb Dome, and the Paper Crane Memorial in Hiroshima City. By all means, see every one of those places, but once you finish...

Do...

- Take the train over to Nagasaki and look at their Peace Park, the lesser visited of the two. Did you know Kokura was the original target on August 9th, but cloud cover caused the pilot to divert to Nagasaki?

- Really go off the beaten path with the Kamizake Museum in Chiran, Kagoshima Prefecture. Hundreds of letters are on display, each from pilots writing their goodbyes to family memories prior to departure.

- Before you leave Tokyo, make sure to visit the Yasukuni War Memorial shrine, honoring the spirits of those fallen.


7. Don't See Japan With Emerald Glasses

'If you arrived in Paris or Rome and saw something like the new station you would be utterly revolted, but for most foreigners coming to Kyoto it merely whets their appetite to find the old Japan they know must be there. When they finally get to Honen-In Temple and see a monk raking the gravel under maple trees, they say to themselves, "Yes it does exist. I’ve found it!" And their enthusiasm for Kyoto ever after knows no bounds. The minute the walk out of Honen-In they're back in the jumbly modern city, but it doesn't impinge on the retina – they're still looking at the dream.'
Dogs and Demons: The Fall of Modern Japan, Alex Kerr (quoting Mason Florence)

By this, I mean most newbies to Japan hold a kind of mysticism as a veil over their eyes. At some level we appreciate all the fancy robots and electronics in Akihabara, but more often that not, we want the "old Japan": Zen temples with chanting monks, samurai warriors parading the street. The contrast to what we actually see upon landing in Tokyo - high speed trains, school girls in insanely short shorts - almost blinds us to what Japan has become...

The "old Japan", the Japan in the movies you know and love, the Japan you dream about as being somehow removed from time and left in pristine historical condition.... that Japan has been fading from existence since the 1960's.

Do Recognize The Signs of Insane Modernization

I'm not saying you can't enjoy your holiday, sleep in a capsule hotel, and reap the benefits of modernization. Just be aware of some of the things Japan has given up to get to this point.

Kyoto, 1964: A steel eyesore, the city tower, is placed directly in front of the main train station, despite numerous protests from locals. Thus begins the dismantling of historic Kyoto; buildings no longer have to be shorter than ten feet, Zen temples have information loudspeakers installed for tourists, and power lines remain unburied.

Japanese coastline: Why leave sandy beaches alone when you've got concrete quotas to fill? Thus the implementation of tetrapods.

...designed to prevent erosion, but in fact increasing its likelihood. And don't they look pretty?

The Secret Life of Water

I once conducted the following experiment. I filled a jar with plain water from the tap at my office in Tokyo, and then I put it on my desk. Since the water came from the city water-works system and contained chlorine, attempts to make crystals from the water failed.

I then asked for the help of five hundred people located throughout Japan. At the same time on the appointed day, they all sent positive thoughts to purify the water on my desk and then sent the message "Thank you" to the water.

As expected, the water changed and was able to form beautiful crystals. The chlorinated water from the tap had changed to pure water.

How could this have happened? I think you know the answer. The thoughts and words of five hundred people reached the water without regard for the borders of time and space.

Masaru Emoto, The Secret Life of Water

Emoto is also the author of The Hidden Messages in Water, a book I had looked at briefly some years ago without really considering its significance. Due to my studies in Buddhism (and after reading Dan Brown's latest thriller, The Lost Symbol), I find the ideas in this book to be some of the most overlooked and most important in human existence. And no, that's not an exaggeration - books like these are considered by the mainstream to be too "out there" or junk science, but if you'd explore the concept for yourself over a given time, you too might be a "believer".

As Brown says, imagine a grain of sand: pretty small and insignificant, right? We know it has mass, therefore it exerts a certain gravitational pull on nearby objects, but by itself, this effect is minimal. Now consider a beach full of these grains of sand: the mass of these millions of pieces now has the power to affect objects on a larger scale. Both Emoto and Brown's characters have got it right:

Thoughts are just like these grains of sands, and we can see the effects of positive and negative thoughts on matter in the real world.

Why do doctors encourage positive thinking in terminal patients? How is it that someone's soulmate can know if harm befalls the other when they're separated by an ocean? Why should the shapes of crystals in water change according to the thoughts being directed at them? Why do followers of a particular religion seem to gain support quickly and with absolute devotion (it's certainly not for the logic of their holy books)? Because thought has power outside of the mind, and for people thinking the same thoughts, the effect is exponential.

Emoto goes a bit further than this, exploring the crystals formed when water is exposed to positive and negative thoughts, writings, music, prayers from different religions, and when it is gathered from certain sources. I admit he goes a little over the edge (for me, at least) when discussing his ideas of water changing the world, but his heart is in the right place, and the research and pictures are fascinating.